Nervousness in case I missed the shuttle to the start of the Tongariro Crossing had me checking the clock every hour on the hour. I gratefully leapt out of my little bunk bed at 5.45 a.m, hurrying into my hiking gear, knowing my adventure was starting. This was the day the 19 km Tongariro Crossing was to be conquered again.
Packed up with sandwiches, scroggin, water and apples I started off with three friends. The first hour and half was pleasant, mostly easy path and board walks. Then the stepped devils’ staircase appeared. What an absolute killer. One thousand steps to be mounted. I had waved the other three on, as their fitness level was much better than mine and I certainly had a lot of company with at least 700 other hikers spread over the track.
It was tough but just put one foot in front of the other and stopped when I needed to. The stairs were steep but mainly only ten to a block so set a goal to complete one set and then have a break. I made a mistake with the maths initially, thinking I only had ten of these little critters to conquer but then a little thought arose. Ten into a thousand is not ten ! It is one hundred. Reality wasn’t good!! I plodded on.
Once the steps were behind me, I crossed the plateau where I passed Mount Ngauruhoe , which was on my the right, rising to 7516ft. This can also be climbed (but not by me) the same day if fitness allows. A tall, inspiring mass, stretching to the sky. It appeared in the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy as a stand in for the Mountain of Doom.
As I walked, regardless of the heat and the challenges, I found the day really beautiful. The harsh, rocky landscape intriguing. The almost 360 degree views stunning. Feeling extremely lucky that my health allowed me to do this and also for the easy access we have to so many of these natural beauties we have in New Zealand.
The second incline was a just as challenging. Slippery and with a nasty little collection of rocks to be maneuvered around, assisted by little rings set into the rocks – about as useful as a fur coat on a hot summer day. Descending was no easier as the route down was smothered in tiny jagged rocks which rolled underneath your feet, making it difficult to maintain your balance. I just about wore my poles out, using them for balance as I did but at least stayed on my feet. There were many falls on this part of the track. with the little stones causing many nasty deep grazes. People of all ages, stages, cultures and varying levels of fitness but all out there “doing it”. So good to see. Toilet blocks were placed every hour and half on track. This was a real advantage protecting the flora and fauna and making walking much more pleasant for hikers.
By 3 p.m, after setting out so early, I was starting to feel the walk was never ending. Despite the beauty of the surroundings the combination of heat, tough challenging walk, a broken night and the fact that the track had been extended another two kms since I last walked it was making it a long day. Just as I bit the bullet and decided I would make the 4.30 p.m. bus, I picked up a 64 yr old man just past the Ketetahi hut who had completely run out of energy and needed a good amount of motivation. He was a much slower walker than me but we made it. Both delighted when the clearing which is the car park, appeared.
A wonderful but challenging day. The gin and tonic my friends had waiting for me was very welcome on my arrival back at Skotel backpackers. A great feeling of satisfaction as we toasted our achievement,