As inhospitable as the terrain looks, I have spent many happy years enjoying its challenging tracks, being awed by its majestic scenery and energized by the peacefulness I always found here.

Sunset at Whakapapa

Tracks of 1-3 hours include Taranaki Falls and Silica rapids both framed by the mountains surrounding them. Slightly further in distance is the Tama Lakes (5-6 hours return ) which was the track which Yvonne and I did. With the Abel Tasman on the calendar for December 2022 training is underway. Further yet, on past the Tama Lakes, was Waihohonu Hut, a 6 hour hike. This hut is relatively new and is much more comfortable but not as close as the old one to the Waihohonu stream. At the end of a hot and dusty hike, you could drop your pack at the hut and race down to this freezing cold mountain stream, a quick strip and then covered by a sarong, a dash into the water, discarding the wrap as you dived in. Usually there was no one else around, so not too many worries about privacy. It was such bliss to get rid of the dust and sweat from the hike just completed.

Alpine terrain surrounding the Tama Lakes

Lower Tama Lake

“Round the Mountain” is the most challenging at 66.2 kms. Rugged terrain. Rocky. Alpine. Forest. Each day the terrain was different. It took us four nights and five days staying in Waihohonu, Rangipo, Mangaehuehu and lastly Mangaturuturu. I have completed this twice. The first time was shocking weather. I was already pretty shattered by the challenges this track offered as I had never done anything which had pushed me out of my comfort zone quite so much and then to have weather not loving me either !!. Each night I would climb into my bunk thinking very positively “tomorrow will be better” but no. Rain. Wind. A bit of sleet. Rain and wind!! all delivered alongside the threat of an avalanche (which never eventuated thank goodness) The second time was picture perfect. A completely different experience – for me. We had met up with a young couple on the first day who were also walking the track . She had not broken her boots in before starting, so within two hours on the track she had developed large blisters which had progressively got bigger over the next four days. She was in absolute agony. He was so selfish. He had just bought a new video camera so could not help her at all as he was too busy filming!!!! On the last day we shared her pack contents between the three of us, I don’t think she would have made it out otherwise. I am always surprised by the people you meet on tracks. Usually such great and interesting people who are happy to share their stories. I don’t think I have ever met anyone as selfish as he was.

Whakapapa will always be special to me. I hope that somewhere in the world you are able to find such a place for yourself. If you find Whakapapa so much the better.